Again, I'm not sure if that's the right way to do it, but I went for it anyway. There seemed to be one small area where no solder was showing, so I reheated the joint and pushed more in. I'm not sure if that was the right thing to do, but I thought more would be better than less.Īfter the joint cooled and stopped taking solder, I looked at it to see how well the solder went in. So, I pushed some extra solder into the joint. The fitting also was fairly 'loose' on the dry fit. I was a little concerned that I wouldn't get a good fit, because the copper pipe was pretty beat up and bent right up to the edge of (and maybe a little beyond.) where the copper fitting was going to go on.

I was afraid I would heat the copper pipe too much and ruin it somehow!Īnyway, I brushed the flux on, put on the copper fitting, twisted to spread the flux, heated with the propane torch until the solder melted and pushed a bunch in. I did try heating the solder and wiping up at a couple of points in the cleaning process, but that didn't seem to go so well. I probably should have heated the solder and wiped it off first, then used the emery cloth. I cleaned the old solder off the copper pipe with emery cloth.

It came right off easily with just a little bit (less than 2 minutes?) of heating with MAPP gas. I cut off the brass hose bibb, stuffed a bunch of bread in the pipe and sweated the rest of the brass fitting off.

Since I didn't know how to crack one of the water meter connections and I didn't want to open up a wall, I got out a 4 1/2' angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel. 4 1/2' Angle Grinder to remove brass fitting with water in line

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